Chitose Abe has built Sacai’s reputation on a very specific kind of dressing: hybrid pieces, spliced fabrics, garments that are two things simultaneously, constructions that reward the viewer who looks closely enough to understand how they were made, and she has been doing it long enough that the approach is now its own genre. For Resort 2027, she deliberately stepped back from that register, saying she did not want the pressure of designing high-impact runway clothes and that she wanted to focus instead on easy, wearable pieces. The result is a collection that functions as a genuine palate cleanser, quieter than anything she has shown in recent memory, and more immediately useful to the women who will actually wear it, without losing the design intelligence that makes Sacai worth paying attention to in the first place.
The Women’s Resort Collection
The lineup included cheeky miniskirts with shorts underneath, trousers and skirts with utilitarian pockets and straps, and a series of white blouses with sculptural sleeves and flowing scarves at the neck, each piece making its statement quietly, with a focus on practicality and movement rather than visual spectacle.
Silky printed dresses with scarf details at the shoulder, a striped shirtdress with a polo collar, and a faded black denim skort and matching jacket with Sacai’s characteristic rounded silhouette rounded out a wardrobe that feels genuinely suited to the demands of a long, warm season, the kind of clothes that move through a full day without demanding to be noticed.
The Men’s Collection and the Birkenstock Partnership
For menswear, Abe dug into the 1980s preppy archive in collaboration with Brooks Brothers, slicing open the lapels of navy blazers to reveal the linings, and turning silk ties into long loose scarf-cravats draped over the shoulders, a signature Sacai move applied to one of fashion’s most recognisable and resistant reference points. The collaboration with Birkenstock introduced two new hybrid sandal silhouettes: the Aoyama 107, which merges the original 1963 Madrid sandal with the 1973 Arizona’s square buckles, and the Cassette 75, both named after significant locations in Sacai’s history, with a utility bag in matching natural and suede leathers completing the footwear capsule, set to launch globally in Spring 2027.
Archive imagery and album art from Soul II Soul, the 1980s British musical collective, were turned into a collage fabric that ran through the final section of the men’s show, a reminder that even in a season built around wearability and practical ease, Abe’s instinct for culturally specific reference never fully retreats. Resort 2027 is Sacai in a quieter register, and a quieter Sacai turns out to be exactly what this particular moment called for.
