A New Kind of Glamour

The house of Elie Saab, long synonymous with the kind of extravagant, beaded gowns that define red-carpet fantasy, presented a different vision of the modern woman on Saturday. For his Spring/Summer 2026 collection at Paris Fashion Week, the Lebanese couturier traded celestial ballgowns for silk blouses and pencil skirts, staging a quiet revolution in the name of pragmatic elegance.

Held at the stark, modern concrete halls of the Palais de Tokyo, the show signaled a deliberate and significant shift. The collection was not merely new; it was a philosophical statement. “I wanted the collection to speak of a courageous woman,” Mr. Saab explained backstage, according to Vogue. “Women are born courageous, I know that, but now the world needs them to be more fearless than ever.” This character of strength and practicality walked decisively down the runway, challenging the very definition of glamour that Saab himself helped cement.

From Red Carpet to Reality

The tone was set from the opening look. Deva Cassel, daughter of actress Monica Bellucci, did not emerge in a cascade of tulle and sequins. Instead, she opened the show wearing a khaki pencil skirt and a flowing silk blouse, an ensemble more befitting a powerful CEO than a Hollywood starlet. This was the new Saab lexicon, sharp, wearable, and imbued with a quiet confidence.

The collection was a masterclass in sophisticated daywear. Animal-print silk trench coats were belted with precision, while blazers and wide-leg organza denim trousers offered a fresh take on tailoring. The signature Saab lavishness was not absent, but it was translated into a new language. Instead of voluminous gowns, printed chiffon was artfully draped into shorter, more fluid dresses. Lighter-than-air blouses and belted skirts provided elegant solutions for the modern woman’s journey from boardroom to restaurant.

This was not a rejection of beauty, but a recontextualization of it. The craftsmanship remained impeccable, the fall of the silk, the cut of a trench coat, the delicate drape of chiffon, but it was now in the service of a woman navigating the real world with fearlessness and grace.

A Staged Shift in Perspective

The choice of venue was as intentional as the clothes. The Palais de Tokyo, a temple of contemporary art, provided a stark, minimalist backdrop that focused all attention on the clothing’s form and function, a far cry from the ornate settings of Saab’s past shows. The guest list, which included supermodel Heidi Klum and Saudi influencer Nojoud Al-Rumaihi, witnessed a collection that felt both personal and timely.

This pivot reflects a broader conversation within the fashion industry about the evolving role of couture and luxury. In an era where women’s roles are multifaceted and their power is increasingly redefined, a wardrobe built solely on evening wear can feel anachronistic. Saab’s new direction acknowledges this, offering a toolkit for the “courageous woman” he aims to dress, one who commands respect in daylight as much as she captivates by night.

A Broader Parisian Tapestry

Saab’s pragmatic turn was just one of the narratives unfolding in the French capital on Saturday. Elsewhere, the fashion world continued its diverse exploration of identity and heritage.

At Hermès, creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented her collection within the barracks of the house. “It’s also a land of bohemians, gypsies – and freedom. I wanted to bring this zest of freedom to equestrian style, which is often associated with the strict and the rational. I wanted to let go and give it a sense of spontaneity and fullness,” the designer explained. The result was a collection of effortless luxury, with supple leathers and fluid silhouettes that spoke of a nomadic, unburdened spirit.

Meanwhile, at Vivienne Westwood, the spirit of rebellion was alive and well. Andreas Kronthaler, the house’s designer, drew inspiration from antique curtains, presenting a theatrical collection at the historic Institut de France. The show featured fluid, draped dresses and corseted baroque-style silhouettes, culminating in a finale where Klum, in a rhinestone-embellished bustier and long cape, was followed by Kronthaler himself carrying a comically large bouquet of sunflowers.

Yet, it was Saab’s show that carried the weight of a paradigm shift. By reining in the spectacle and focusing on the sophisticated architecture of daywear, Elie Saab has not abandoned his core identity; instead, he has evolved it. He has proven that courage in fashion isn’t always about the grandest gesture; sometimes, it’s found in the perfect cut of a khaki pencil skirt.